The wines of Parusso are renowned for their unique expressions, resulting from an exciting balance between traditional and modern winemaking techniques. Gaspare Parusso began making wine in 1901, with further parcels of vines acquired in the 1920s and later by his grandson Armando following his takeover of the management of the company in the 1970s. Today the estate is managed by brother and sister Marco and Tiziana Parusso, with the siblings establishing a reputation for supple and expressive styles of Barolo over the past twenty-five years. The oak ageing regime here is resolutely in the modernist camp, with wines spending time in mostly new French oak barriques before bottling, rather than the more traditional large oak botti. The most distinct part of the winemaking process takes place prior to fermentation, with whole bunches of hand-picked grapes rested in ventilated, temperature-controlled conditions to allow for the ripening of the stems and absorption of oxygen – an ancient Roman technique that leads to a significant softening of the tannins. The effect of this oxygen absorption is also to create optimal conditions for indigenous yeasts to begin the fermentation process, allowing for minimal intervention in the cellar during the fermentation and maceration period. The resulting wines are exuberant and expressive, with a real sense of balance. The fruit is ripe (harvests tend to be relatively late here) and in youth the wines can show quite apparent toasty notes from the use of small new barrels, but there is always a harmonious feel, and the wines have a track record of ageing very well in bottle.