Interest has been bubbling away amongst wine critics for some time and can now be found offered by various specialist winemerchants and wine bar operators. Here we have six fabulous examples from Italy, Greece, Hungary and Madeira, all from indigenous grapes grown on harsh and hostile volcanic terroir, rich in minerals and refreshing acidity from ash-laden basalt lava. These intriguing wines are often grown on rootstock which is hundreds of years old. They all possess an undeniable mineral and saline character with structure, complexity and an ability to age for a decade – white as well as reds.

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