The ever so refreshing club champagne is made by Edouard Brun, a small yet prestigious négociant-manipulant. It is indeed one of only 80 out of 336 registered négociants to form part of the “Union des Maisons de Champagne”, which gathers all the celebrated “Grandes Marques”. The company was founded in 1898 in the village of Aÿ, home to grand cru champagnes, near Epernay. It is now owned by the Delescot family. Philippe Delescot is responsible for this 60% pinot meunier, 20% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay blend. The grapes are exclusively grown in the Marne. It is this northern part of the delimitation that constitutes the heartland of the Champagne region. The pale lemon colour of the wine looks inviting in the glass. Subtle notes of honey and brioche add warmth to the fruit-driven nose, full of bruised apple and juicy yellow peach, plus a hint of apricot and a squeeze of lemon and grapefruit. Since it is dry on the palate and combines delicate mousse, tartaric acidity and underlying minerality, this wine conveys an overall sense of freshness, to the point that one would forget that it is an alcoholic drink. Candied, acidulated fruit, like lemon sherbet and pear drop, plus zingy pineapple and green apple, add to the appeal. Bakery notes develop in the finish, thereby giving a sensation of roundness and softness in the mouth. The club champagne displays enough complexity to match light summer dishes, but since it is so delightfully refreshing, it has got to be the ultimate reception drink.